<p class="p1">The Filipino designer&rsquo;s Spring/Summer 2024 collection for his label PAXON is a modern take on the classic <em>Balintawak</em> silhouette.</p>

<p class="p1">Denim isn&rsquo;t a fabric usually associated with traditional garments&mdash;especially the Filipiniana. The textile is workman-like, casual, and quite utilitarian. But in the eyes of Filipino designer <strong>Renan Pacson</strong>, it&rsquo;s a malleable material that&rsquo;s perfect for his modern vision of the classic Philippine dress.</p>
<p class="p1">Inspired by the life and style of Filipina revolutionary <strong>Gabriela Silang</strong>, Pacson manipulates and exaggerates the timeless Balintawak ensemble, making it new again through the use of denim and other modern fabrics like chiffon. The designer also adds knots, ribbons, and ruching in unexpected areas that add a youthful touch to every look. Layering is also Pacson&rsquo;s expertise, and he does it so cleverly through the mixing of cropped silhouettes and oversized and expansive shoulders with printed tunic shirts and high-waisted tiered skirts over pants.</p>

<p class="p1">The line exudes a rebellious and tough spirit that is true to Pacson&rsquo;s design DNA&mdash;truly modernizing the silhouette and making it his own. Here, the designer talks to <em>L&rsquo;Officiel</em> about the collection, what makes it distinctly PAXON, and the woman who he envisions wearing his work.</p>
<h5 class="p3">You&rsquo;ve already mentioned Gabriela Silang, but who else inspired you to create this collection, and why opt for these silhouettes?</h5>
<p class="p3">I know my women are not the <em>Maria Clara</em> type of dresses, hence I started with my ideal historical Filipina woman that's closer to my sensibilities. The hero piece of the capsule, the <em>maong</em> jacket is actually called "Jovita", named after my mom. I dissected an old Balintawak of my mom that she had for decades and the whole collection started from there. The silhouettes are more armorial than dainty.</p>
<h5 class="p3">Since you mentioned that the PAXON woman wouldn&rsquo;t be into your typical <em>Maria Claras</em>, what kind of woman did you have in mind when creating this collection?</h5>
<p class="p3">The beautiful and empowered women that actually surround me. They work as bankers, lawyers, are the decision-makers, and the power brokers. I envision the pieces from this collection to be worn inside boardrooms and offices more than galas and soirees.&nbsp;</p>

<h5 class="p1">Are there particular techniques that you used in the creation of this collection that are new or different from what you've done before?</h5>
<p class="p2">The volume on the sleeve is sort of a discovery for me, I&rsquo;ve always played with volume but not in a very feminine way. Ironically, for these ready-to-buy pieces, I used a lot of hand stitching for the finishing which is usually reserved for custom orders. How we produced the lookbook is also new to me. Being based in the province (Nueva Ecija), I gathered a small group of creatives from the neighboring barangays. The whole thing is hyper-local.</p>
<h5 class="p1">Do you think there is a resurgence of the Filipiniana dress? Particularly the Balintawak?</h5>
<p class="p2">There is a resurgence for sure. We are seeing iterations of the Filipiniana in many forms and it's exciting and inspiring. I tend to lean towards Balintawak as opposed to the more rigid Terno. Balintawak is commonly used by the rural dwellers. More relaxed, more practical, and worn by working women.&nbsp;</p>

<h5 class="p1">Why opt for denim? The fabric actually makes it a refreshing take on the silhouette.</h5>
<p class="p1">My utilitarian sensibilities. I like things that can last more than one washing. And the more you wash it, the more interesting it gets. I also see the pieces as armorial&mdash;a battle gear. I used <em>malong</em> and <em>patadyong</em> fabrics as lining for that pop of print and color and to evoke that while my women are tough and strong, they are also very sweet, warm, and loving on the inside.</p>
<h5 class="p2">What about the collection makes it uniquely PAXON?</h5>
<p class="p1">It's the practicality and functionality. While the silhouettes are a bit out-there, the denim and sturdy fabrics bring it back to my street roots. It's familiar but twisted. This collection shelters you, protects you, warms you, and definitely empowers you!</p>
<p class="p1"><em>The PAXON Spring/Summer 2024 collection is exclusively available at Jor-El Espina's Boutique in Greenbelt 5.&nbsp;</em></p>

Renan Pacson Is Here to Revolutionize the Filipiniana

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