In 2004, Junichi Abe founded Kolor. Over two decades later, he passed the torch to Taro Horiuchi. As the newly appointed creative director who recently debuted his first collection in Paris, what is his vision for fashion house Kolor?

Names like Issey Miyake, Comme des Gar&ccedil;ons and Yohji Yamamoto have long been pillars of Japanese fashion history. Since the &rsquo;70s and &rsquo;80s, they have consistently presented collections at Paris Fashion Week, typically under the founding designers&rsquo; direct stewardship. This legacy inevitably raises the question of succession. While transitions to core team members or family are not uncommon, the appointment of an entirely external designer remains a rare move.
Among the generation that includes UNDERCOVER and sacai, Kolor now stands at a turning point. Founder Junya Abe has made a significant decision &mdash; to appoint Taro Horiuchi, a designer who has spent years honing his craft in Belgium and Paris, as Kolor&rsquo;s new creative lead.

Reflecting on their connection, Horiuchi shares: &ldquo;I believe Mr. Abe and I first met at the Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix ceremony. Over the following decade, he frequently invited me to Kolor&rsquo;s presentations and exhibitions. Yet, as someone who has never worked directly under him, to be entrusted with this role came as a genuine surprise.&rdquo;

The appointment was announced in late January 2025, with his debut collection presented in June. Despite the tight timeline, Horiuchi confidently brought his vision to the Parisian runway. &ldquo;Mr. Abe told me, &lsquo;Different perspectives are natural. You don&rsquo;t have to seek unanimous approval.&rsquo; Those words became my anchor,&rdquo; he reveals. &ldquo;Now, two months after the debut, I&rsquo;m fully immersed in developing the upcoming Autumn/Winter collection.&rdquo;
While Kolor under Abe&rsquo;s direction had long been menswear-oriented, Horiuchi is particularly recognised for his strength in womenswear. Discussing his creative direction, he notes: &ldquo;My approach to menswear may not diverge drastically from Mr. Abe&rsquo;s. That said, you might witness &lsquo;my language&rsquo; being expressed more distinctly in womenswear &mdash; I aim to propose sharper, more androgynous silhouettes.&rdquo;

Photography by Jeremy Elkin.

Taro Horiuchi on Taking Over Kolor, His Paris Debut, and the Future of Japanese Fashion

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