From ultra-thin engineering to boundary-pushing complications, these timepieces are redefining what today's finest watches can be.

Overdrive. This is where watchmaking sheds moderation and surges into a state of heightened ambition, where the pursuit of timekeeping moves beyond practicality and into the realm of the exceptional. Every element is intensified. Surfaces are finished to near perfection, tolerances narrowed to microscopic extremes, and mechanisms conceived with bold, uncompromising intent. In this space, refinement is absolute, expressed through a devotion to detail that transforms even the smallest component into an object of significance.
Even the most classically inclined timepieces are not exempt from this momentum. Traditional forms, once defined by restraint and continuity, are now reinterpreted through a sharper lens of refinement and elevated finishing. Guilloché becomes more intricate, casework more exacting, and proportions more deliberate. What was once considered complete is revisited, enhanced and pushed further, proving that heritage does not resist progress but evolves with it.
At the same time, complexity rises with equal force. Functions are layered into intricate systems that challenge both logic and possibility, creating a dynamic tension between precision and imagination. Gears engage with heightened exactness, oscillations are stabilised with remarkable consistency, and entire constructions are rethought to push performance beyond established limits. What emerges is not excess, but a deliberate amplification of purpose.
Thus, overdrive is about intensity, about the courage to explore the outer edges of the craft, and about the discipline required to realise it.

Hublot has unveiled the Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition as a dynamic three-part series that translates the monumental career of Novak Djokovic into a bold expression of contemporary watchmaking.
Widely regarded as the greatest tennis player of all time, Djokovic’s dominance is defined not just by numbers but by endurance, precision and relentless consistency. His 24 Grand Slam titles, record 428 weeks at world number one and eight year-end finishes reflect a sustained level of performance at the very limits of human capability.
In parallel, this timepiece explores the extremes of watchmaking, where innovation, material science and mechanical architecture are pushed to their own boundaries.
The collection is conceived as a trilogy, with each version aligned with the surfaces that have shaped his dominance. Blue reflects his hard court victories, orange channels his clay court success, while green marks his triumphs on grass.
The initial release stands at 101 pieces, corresponding to his career wins at the time, yet the concept remains open. With every future title, a new piece will be introduced, allowing the collection to evolve in step with his legacy.

As expected with Hublot, material innovation takes centre stage. The 44mm case is crafted from a proprietary composite developed using fragments of Djokovic’s own Lacoste polo shirts and Head tennis racquets, embedding a physical trace of his journey into the watch itself. This is paired with Titaplast, a high-performance polymer known for its exceptional strength to weight ratio and refined matte finish, resulting in a case that is both resilient and remarkably light.
Inside, the MHUB6035 automatic tourbillon calibre reveals a striking architectural approach. Its lattice mainplate, inspired by the tension of racquet strings, replaces conventional construction with a sculptural, openworked form. Despite its intricate appearance, the structure is machined from a single piece, highlighting Hublot’s technical capability. Further details extend the narrative, from the tennis ball inspired barrel to the 22-carat red gold micro rotor. Comprising 293 components, the movement delivers a 72-hour power reserve.
From the tennis ball shaped screws to the strap echoing racquet grip textures, every element reinforces the sporting connection to Djokovic and tennis. Interestingly, with a weight of just 56 grams and engineered for active wear, the watch balances high complication with performance. It emerges as a confident, forward-looking tribute that captures Djokovic’s relentless pursuit of excellence, where the extremes of sport and the extremes of watchmaking meet in perfect tension.

Precision in watchmaking enters a new frontier with a breakthrough in how performance is measured and defined. Developed by the Laboratoire de Précision and validated by METAS, an advanced acoustic testing method has, for the first time, enabled a two-hand watch displaying only hours and minutes to achieve Master Chronometer certification. By combining sound analysis with optical hand tracking, the system removes the traditional reliance on a seconds hand, redefining how accuracy is observed and verified.
At the core of this innovation is a fully integrated, wireless testing unit that unifies both Chronometer and Master Chronometer certification within a single continuous process. Over a 25-day cycle, each movement undergoes a comprehensive evaluation, with every tick and tack recorded alongside environmental factors such as temperature, position, magnetic exposure and atmospheric pressure. Powered by Dual Metric Technology, this approach transforms timekeeping into measurable data, elevating testing into a discipline of complete precision. Operating independently, the Laboratoire de Précision ensures results that are impartial and confidential, reinforcing confidence across the industry.

This advancement is realised through the new OMEGA Constellation Observatory Collection, which builds upon a legacy of certified precision dating back to 1952. Presented across nine references in 39.4mm cases, the collection merges historical design language with contemporary execution.
Signature elements are reinterpreted with clarity, including the dodecagonal pie pan dial, faceted indexes, dauphine hands and the observatory medallion on the caseback. Guilloché detailing, distinctive lugs and vintage inspired bracelet construction maintain continuity while refining their presence.

Powering the collection are two new calibres, structured across three levels of execution. The most elevated versions feature movements enriched with precious metal components, intricate medallions and decorative techniques such as enamel and aventurine. The next tier introduces refined finishing with gold elements and Geneva wave decoration, while standard executions adopt a rhodium plated finish within a high performance O-MEGASTEEL case. Material innovation further defines the collection. Precious metal editions integrate gold across case, dial and movement for a cohesive expression, while alternative versions utilise an advanced steel alloy selected for its strength and durability. Additionally, a black ceramic dial extends the technical achievement, requiring extensive development to achieve its precise geometric form.

With exceptional finishing is executed to the highest standard, and every component is hand polished, bevelled and decorated in accordance with the Poinçon de Genève, Chopard commemorates the 30th anniversary of its Fleurier Manufacture with a refined reinterpretation of its iconic Chopard L.U.C 1860, a timepiece that captures the essence of the original while reflecting three decades of continuous progress. Achieving this level of craftsmanship in steel is particularly uncommon, adding further distinction to the piece. Altogether, this anniversary edition stands as a thoughtful continuation of a landmark model, where tradition is not simply preserved, but carefully carried forward through with greater refinement and quality.
While the case remains faithful to its original 36.5mm proportions, the watch is, this time around, crafted in Lucent SteelTM, thus introducing a contemporary material that enhances both durability and brilliance without disrupting the watch’s classical identity. The dial, presented in a rich “Areuse Blue”, draws inspiration from the Areuse River, whose flowing waters and shifting tones echo the interplay of light across the surface. The result is a colour that feels both vibrant and deeply rooted in its natural surroundings.

While the case remains faithful to its original 36.5mm proportions, the watch is, this time around, crafted in Lucent SteelTM, thus introducing a contemporary material that enhances both durability and brilliance without disrupting the watch’s classical identity.

The dial, presented in a rich “Areuse Blue”, draws inspiration from the Areuse River, whose flowing waters and shifting tones echo the interplay of light across the surface. The result is a colour that feels both vibrant and deeply rooted in its natural surroundings.
Luxuriously executed in 18-carat white gold, the dial is adorned with hand guilloché decoration, achieved using a traditional rose engine lathe. A sunburst pattern radiates from the centre, complemented by concentric guilloché rings that enhance depth and texture. The display is composed with clarity in mind, featuring a satin brushed chapter ring, polished chevron shaped hour markers and Dauphine hands. Furthermore, a small seconds counter at six o’clock reinforces the symmetry, while the absence of a date maintains a sense of visual purity.
Powering the watch is the L.U.C Calibre 96.40 L, an evolution of the Manufacture’s first in-house movement from 1996. Measuring just 3.30 mm in height, it integrates a 22-carat gold micro rotor and twin stacked barrels through Chopard Twin technology, delivering a 65-hour power reserve. Its precision is validated by certification from the COSC, while features such as stop seconds and a swan’s neck regulator allow for refined adjustment.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.

For those seeking a most elegant solution to the sports watch, Vacheron Constantin has delivered the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. Inside is the newly developed Calibre 2550, a movement that redefines what is possible within the constraints of ultra-thin watchmaking. Measuring just 2.4mm in thickness while delivering an impressive 80-hour power reserve, it is the result of seven years of focused research aimed at elevating both performance and efficiency without compromising elegance. Evolving from the foundation laid by the legendary 1120, the Calibre 2550 introduces a completely rethought architecture built around three core elements: a micro rotor, a suspended double barrel and a compact single level gear train. The micro rotor, crafted from 950 platinum, is set directly into the mainplate, reducing overall height while maintaining optimal winding efficiency. Complementing this is the suspended double barrel system, where two stacked barrels operate in series to maximise energy storage and deliver a steady, consistent torque. This configuration allows for extended autonomy while preserving the movement’s exceptionally slim profile.
To support this construction, the gear train has been redesigned into a streamlined five wheel system, with selected components mounted on ball bearings to enhance durability and efficiency. Beating at a reassuring 3Hz, the movement balances precision with stability, reinforced by rigorous testing for shock resistance and long-term reliability. As expected from Vacheron Constantin, the finishing, inside and out, is executed to the highest standards. The mainplate has been circular grained, the bridges are bevelled and decorated with Geneva stripes, while the wheels are given a stunning sunburst finish. The micro rotor itself features a combination of satin brushing, graining and polished detailing, forming a visual centrepiece that reflects the Vacheron Constantin’s attention to detail.

As mentioned, this new calibre makes its debut within a new Overseas model crafted entirely in 950 platinum, a first for the collection. Enhanced with copper and gallium and treated for increased hardness, the alloy offers superior resistance to scratches and shocks. With a diameter of 39.5mm and a thickness of just 7.35mm, it becomes the slimmest Overseas ever created. Moreover, a sunburst satin finished salmon lacquered dial completes the watch, a pairing with platinum that echoes historical references within Vacheron Constantin’s archives. Retaining the versatility of the Overseas line, the watch is fitted with an interchangeable strap system.

Altogether, it stands as a truly confident expression of contemporary ultra-thin watchmaking.

Modern Horology Is Entering a New Era

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