The Dutch-Filipino designer behind AMG mirrors the ebb and flow of grief and healing in&nbsp;her latest collection.

PHOTOGRAPHY Ladislav Kyllar
STYLING AND CONSULTATION Mirko Pedone
Summer in Manila has been unbearably hot, but across the globe, London-based Dutch-Filipino designer Alyssa Marie Groeneveld is already putting the finishing touches on the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection of AMG, her eponymous brand.
Titled Heartshape, Groeneveld&rsquo;s newest release stars a cast of imaginary characters. &ldquo;I envisioned my personal experiences with grief and loss reflected in a diverse group of individuals, each using their bedroom as a safe space,&rdquo; she shares. &ldquo;Some are recovering from a hangover, others are working...some are simply tired, while others seek comfort in coziness.&rdquo; In the same way, grieving is never linear, so too is what it creates.
And comfort can be a statement, declares Groeneveld. Heartshape marries streetwear references with kooky tailoring to create cozy, cocooning pieces that are bulbous and inflated in the most unexpected places. Groeneveld&rsquo;s specialty is reworking: a majority of her garments are draped with secondhand clothing sourced via Vinted and eBay. In an industry where the word &ldquo;reworked&rdquo; is met with some contention, Groeneveld sees it as a means for innovation, spinning new narratives and perspectives from found forms.
&ldquo;Using these existing garments, I employ a freeform draping technique on the mannequin, guided by my intuition. There are no patterns involved. This approach makes for a dynamic, organic creative process.&rdquo;

Let&rsquo;s talk about your latest collection. What were your inspirations for it?
My latest collection is called Heartshape, inspired by the personal grief I had to process over the past months. [Within a short span of time], I had lost some people who were important to me. For some time I couldn&rsquo;t leave my house; I really took the time to sit with my pain and turn it into something strong and beautiful.
How did AMG begin? What are your dreams for it?
After graduating from Central Saint Martins in May 2022, I started my own business. It all began organically, when the multi-brand online platform APOC STORE and Tokyo-based select shop Radd Lounge showed interest in selling my clothes. That interest inspired me to create my Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
I found a lovely studio in east London, and from there, AMG gained a lot of [traction]. Now, I dedicate myself full time to my brand, which in itself is immensely fulfilling. Recently, I moved into a larger studio space, symbolising growth and progress.
My focus remains on the daily act of creating and draping. I&rsquo;m not fixated on specific achievements; rather, I believe that significant opportunities will come in due time. For me, it&rsquo;s about embracing the process and finding fulfillment in the journey.

Could you tell us a little bit about your career background?
Prior to launching AMG, I was part of a collective-based brand in Amsterdam from 2016 until early 2020. This journey began after completing my BA in Rotterdam alongside some classmates.
During my time with the collective, I developed skills in team management and meeting deadlines. It was also a period of self-discovery, where I unearthed my own drive and deep passion for my craft. However, I eventually felt the need to expand beyond Amsterdam&rsquo;s limitations. To pursue broader horizons and challenge myself further, I decided to pursue my master&rsquo;s degree in London. This move allowed me to operate on larger scales and to focus on solo growth.
Let&rsquo;s talk about Heartshape, which seems to have a deconstructed, inflated, streetwear feel to it. What were your inspirations for it?
My main inspiration is music. Actually, it was music that got me interested in fashion. As a kid, artists like Pharrell, Ciara, Eve, Kanye West, and others captivated me not only with their music but also with their fashion choices. I was always so amused with how they dressed. I wanted to style them and make clothes for them. I danced hip-hop in my teenage years and that also significantly influenced my personal style. Even today, my wardrobe reflects the influence of both music and dance on my fashion choices.

What piqued your fascination with the textured fabrics and draping techniques you use?
I mostly use sportswear garments, often mixing in elements of formalwear, for my pieces. I source everything secondhand from platforms like eBay or Vinted. For some collections, I receive support from brands like Puma and Amsterdam-based The New Originals.
How is this latest release different from your past collections?
Heartshape is essentially a summary of my previous four collections. Despite having a very limited timeframe for its creation&mdash;just two weeks!&mdash;I managed to pull it off. The intense push was fueled by grief and loss.
I collaborated with my good friend Bram Romkes for the prints and the logo, which I feel add depth to the collection. During my time pursuing my master&rsquo;s degree, I developed my own draping techniques, and since then, I&rsquo;ve made it a point to innovate with every garment I create. Each collection becomes a newer version of the last one, representing an ongoing evolution in my creative journey.
Then could you walk us through your creative process?
My work is deeply rooted in my personal emotional experiences, serving as a profound reflection of my inner journey. I strive for a harmonious balance between feminine and masculine energies. I treat each creation like a spiritual mirror, weaving together narratives of individuals intersecting within public spaces. 
To bring these characters to life, I source secondhand garments. Using these pieces as a foundation, I craft new garments directly on the mannequin through my draping techniques.
BEAUTY John Allan 
CASTING DIRECTOR Tally Francis 
MODELS Elan, Chris, Fergus, and Joe
LOGO DESIGN Bram Romkes 
TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT Mel Elyse, Laia and Dovile Visockaite
SHOES Untitlab 
SPECIAL THANKS TO Puma and The New Originals

The Nonlinear: Meet Alyssa Marie Groeneveld of AMG

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