NICOMEDE, the eponymous label from British-Filipino fashion designer Nicomede Talavera, debuts womenswear with a refined point of view.

PHOTOGRAPHY Steve Harnacke
STYLING George Krakowiak
&ldquo;I was draping fabrics while on an island in the Philippines,&rdquo; Nicomede Talavera muses, lost in thought. &ldquo;To be at one with the lands, nature, Filipino sun, and a distinct island spirit was very much a meditative process&mdash;a sacred process, as this was the first time in my life I was able to create in the land where my ancestors roamed.&rdquo;
For Talavera, the last three years have been a season of homecoming. The son of Filipino parents who immigrated to the United Kingdom, he has spent a lifetime refining his personal interpretation of heritage and ancestry. Now with Episode Seven, the latest collection from his eponymous label NICOMEDE, he welcomes the divine feminine via the brand&rsquo;s first-ever foray into womenswear.
Signature details include rows of hook-and-eye fastenings, deconstructed collars, twisted plackets, angular lapel tailoring, sock-like collars, and shell embellishments. A textural, graphic color palette of dove white and midnight black comes punctuated with army green, sunrise yellow, dragon red, and an earthy palette of moon gray, amber, and clay. Fabric choices are luxurious yet understated: wool and herringbone suiting, silk taffeta, poplin, lambswool knits, gloss leather, suede, and pony skin. Handcrafted accessories, made in collaboration with Berlin-based designer Ekaterina Pronina, features shells, crystals, and studs on punk- inspired knit forms.

Could you tell us a little bit about your background? What was your path to becoming a fashion designer?
I&rsquo;m British-Filipino, with parents from the Philippines. Both immigrated to the United Kingdom. I grew up in London, a city filled with culture, inspiration, and history. I have always been creative, even as a child, and that led me to Central Saint Martins, where I studied under the late Louise Wilson. I&rsquo;ve always had this sensibility around design, style, and attitude. 
How has your design perspective shifted or remained since you began fashion school?
I always reference creativity and how to approach a concept in the same way as during my time in fashion school, which was truly transformational. That is where I was taught about modernity, silhouettes, the oddity of proportions, and capturing essence.

Could you tell us more about NICOMEDE? What are your dreams for it?
I started this brand over a decade ago. In and out of fashion, it has evolved in many different ways, from doing runways to following my own path. The brand today is soulful elegance, underpinned by that island spirit. NICOMEDE is a brand that represents a narrative of identity, culture, and modernity. 
My dream is for it to continue to tell stories that resonate with me authentically&mdash;to create a brand with community and to create clothing that people from all over the world can connect with too. I would like to continue to develop its identity and create its own space, where design and integrity are combined. I feel optimistic for the future work, projects, and collaborations ahead.

Let&rsquo;s talk about NICOMEDE&rsquo;s latest collection, Episode Seven. What were your inspirations for it?
Searching for a deeper narrative to share led to me returning to the Philippines and connecting with the island spirit. Observing and leading with curiosity had me step into the world of Filipino art. It was the work of Philippine National Artist Arturo Luz that guided my imagination for the collection. Luz was a pioneer in modernism with soul; it was that energy that I wanted to lead with. I was introduced to a series of his paintings and photographs called Boxes and Shells. There was such a beautiful presence about them. I had a vision of meeting in this space, between the shadows and light, amongst these pure, minimal cube structures and island shells. An emotional connection was remembered: the shells that adorned my childhood home, the family heirlooms that still exist there. 
I wanted to create something modern, yet ancient, but also forward-facing. I&rsquo;m continuing with codes that inspire me, like tailoring and utility wear. 
What piqued your fascination with the silhouettes, textures, and fabrics you&rsquo;ve used in this collection?
I started with the menswear collection, honoring codes I&rsquo;d previously created and moving forward into a new realm. My menswear universe leads with timeless classics; it was the soulful details, attitude, and fabrication that I wanted to modernize. Fabrics have always been an integral part of my work. It all started when I was a student taking an internship at the men&rsquo;s design studio of Lanvin in Paris. I was exposed to beautiful fabrication, trims, and finishings. [These are things] that I consider carefully to this day. For womenswear, I have a more playful outlook. I want to create beautiful womenswear that empowers the wearer.

What was the most fascinating part of this collection&rsquo;s creation process? Any interesting stories to share about it?
On the island, I was observing, reflecting, and honoring what the Filipino spirit is, reinterpreting it with all the wisdom and strength I have collected over the last few years. It felt authentic to wake up to the rooster&rsquo;s call, feeling the tropical warmth on me and connecting with my ancestors. 
What are the things that have inspired you for years? 
Art and design have always been an influence. [I&rsquo;m always inspired by] the streets and what everyday people wear, as well as films, literature, and historical wear. I&rsquo;ve always been fascinated by the spirituality of clerical clothing and the utility of military garb and how they&rsquo;ve integrated into fashion. 
What are your current influences? 
I have mixed influences at the moment. Life itself is inspiring. The people around me are inspiring. Narratives and nature. Not everything is related to fashion. The journey I took to get to where I am today is what&rsquo;s inspiring. The art of possibilities. I love to research, so that&rsquo;s what my intention is currently: to deepen my connection to what Filipino history is and how to propose a new perspective on what Filipino artistry can be.&nbsp;

Strategic Reset: NICOMEDE

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