Gabriela Hearst, the new creative director, pays homage to Gaby Aghion, the founder of the maison in the year of the brand's centenary. The key pieces are revised and rewritten in version 2.0 with a focus on sustainability and concrete ethical actions

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Gabriela Hearst's debut at Chloè takes place with the Fall-Winter 2021 collection and coincides with the celebration   of the centenary of the birth of the first creative director of the Parisian maison. You can almost tell from Gaby (Gaby Aghion) to Gabi (Hearst) the step is short. The talented Venezuelan designer Gabriela Hearst in fact started from the history of one of the oldest Parisian fashion houses to build her vision, which includes minimal style, attention to sustainability and ethical-environmental issues. The Chloè Autumn-Winter 2021 collection dusts off Aghion's creations as if to tell her "your work is in good hands". The meaning of Chloé - 'flowering' in Greek - has never seemed more appropriate: to renew, innovate and also think about the good of the planet. A small ceramic button is the starting point, a small signature, which adorns the garments and becomes a pendant, a jewel, a charm for the bags. It continues with trench coats and tailored jackets that are knotted on the side of the leather and wool gauze dresses, the daywear has been developed with a precise construction. A strong component is knitwear: ultra-soft and recycled cashmere and multicolored stripes that naturally wink at Gabi's Uruguayan background. Through dresses with fringes and stripes and the "puffcho", an innovative poncho integrated with a down jacket, this personal inspiration is expressed with a relaxed yet urban spirit. Note the scalloped details, which Gaby Aghion applied to a first cotton piqué dress in her 1960 show at Brasserie Lipp . Here, it appears as topstitching on georgette blouses; in leather petals or patchwork denim; as a quilting technique and along the cuffs of knitwear. The Broderie anglaise is transformed from classic to contemporary as a knitwear, and as a leather edge. The motif of the season, a colorful marbled effect, was conceived in New York - Gabi's hometown - from an artisanal technique with natural ingredients. A kaleidoscopic arfalla inlaid on sweaters and scarves wants to communicate the mass extinction in the world of insects. "If our insects leave, we collapse as a species. That's why the harmful herbicides and pesticides used in the manufacture of our fabrics must be eliminated," says Gabi. Some already started before this collection, in the choice of sustainable fabrics are just a beginning. A sustainability plan outlining goals for 2025 has been accelerated with a new one-year timeline. The move to low-impact raw materials means that the AW21 collection can be considered four times more sustainable than last year. Plus this season, 20% of ready-to-wear is produced by members of the World Fair Trade Organization and there are two important partnerships - Manos del Uruguay and Sheltersuit - as pathways for positive social impact to support local artisans employed in the realization of parts of the collection.

Gabriela Hearst: The Debut at Chloé

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