The Maison imbues its iconic Perlée collection with dazzling gemstones to freshen its ring tones.

Within the poetic vision guiding the aesthetics and artistry of&nbsp;Van Cleef &amp; Arpels, the Perlée collection’s geometric lyricism&nbsp;is a pillar that stands alongside others revolving around nature,&nbsp;luck, couture, love and enchantment. Though it officially&nbsp;debuted in 2008, the collection’s soul — the perlage or golden&nbsp;bead — has been embedded in the Maison’s DNA since the&nbsp;1920s, originally appearing as a shimmering outline for precious&nbsp;stones or as a textured accent in Art Deco masterworks.By the late 1940s, these luminous spheres stepped further into the light, evolving from a decorative border into a bold, tactile language of their own. They formed the framework of the Couscous collection, juxtaposing polished yellow gold beads with a supple Tubogas-style chain, along with precious stones and diamonds, in abstract pieces, such as the Couscous Bagatelle necklace (1949) in yellow gold and platinum, set with rubies, sapphires and diamonds.

Over the next decade, figurative designs, exemplified by&nbsp;charming animal clips, were embellished with the gilded&nbsp;beads. The 1960s witnessed the emergence of the Twist&nbsp;iterations, intertwined with coloured gemstones such as coral,&nbsp;lapis lazuli and turquoise, as well as cultured pearls, marking&nbsp;a predilection for volume and contrast. Taking a supporting&nbsp;role in 1968, the delicate spheres were enlisted to contour&nbsp;the Alhambra pieces, and following the renewed interest in&nbsp;geometry and abstraction in the 1980s, the golden beads came&nbsp;into their own, immortalised as the Perlée collection in 2008.

Twist ring, circa 1963 Yellow gold, coral, cultured pearls. Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels.

Little Doe clip, 1956 Yellow gold, rubies. Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels.

Twist bracelet, circa 1963 Yellow gold, coral, cultured pearls. Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels.

From single to multiple rows, the collection’s iconic golden&nbsp;beads imbued Perlée creations with rounded volume. In 2026,&nbsp;this visual identity and design language is fortified with new&nbsp;rings in yellow, rose and white gold, accented with diamonds&nbsp;and coloured gemstones — perfect for layering and pairing.&nbsp;Referencing the sensibility of the Maison’s Perlée five-row rings&nbsp;of 2022, the novelties are structured from three rows of gold&nbsp;beads of varying sizes arranged in a harmonious graduation,&nbsp;from the largest at the top to the smallest at the underside.Slicing across the yellow, white or rose gold spheres for the new Perlée rings is a diagonal line of nine round diamonds that meet the Maison’s exacting 4Cs criteria: D to F for colour and IF to VVS for clarity. An intricate nail setting is used to seamlessly join these two elements in a continuous line, revealing vivid reflections and sparkle as the hand moves. Three similar iterations replace the diamonds with sapphires and emeralds for the yellow gold setting, and with rubies for the rose gold setting. Only stones of intense hues and luminous material are selected by the Maison’s experts.

In crafting these yellow, rose or white gold spheres of varying&nbsp;diameters, the lost-wax casting technique is used, in which the&nbsp;jeweller carefully reworks them by shaping and calibrating to&nbsp;achieve a flawless roundness. Thereafter, stages of polishing&nbsp;unveil their distinct lustre while meticulous finishing reveals&nbsp;burnished brilliance at the crest of each bead.&nbsp;For every jewellery creation, the craftsmanship and attention to detail beneath is purposed by the Maison to be as breathtaking as what sits on top — honeycomb openwork on the reverse paves the way for light to pass through the gemstones, elevating their fire, while nail setting provides security for their rounded tips to echo the Perlée aesthetic. Each nail can hold up to three adjacent stones, set directly against one another and exchanging their tonal quality for extra radiance. High Jewellery stone setters provide their expertise to complete the rings set with sapphires, emeralds or rubies.

Today, the Perlée collection continues this storied trajectory,&nbsp;transforming the Maison’s emblematic beaded signature into&nbsp;a contemporary icon of modularity. In its latest evolution, the&nbsp;collection balances heritage with a playful spirit, where mirror-polished gold beads dance alongside glimmering diamonds&nbsp;and coloured stones, fantastically fashioning the simplest of&nbsp;forms into an expanding universe of poetic geometry, unique&nbsp;savoir-faire and joyous light.

Van Cleef & Arpels Dials Up the Perlée Collection With New Renditions

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Van Cleef & Arpels Dials Up the Perlée Collection With New Renditions